Acne marks and scars: what helps and when to see a doctor

What does acne leave behind, and what helps?

Acne usually leaves two kinds of traces: changes in colour and scars. Red and brown marks sit in the surface of the skin, and they often fade with time. Peels and daily sunscreen can even out the tone faster.

Dents and an uneven surface are a change in the structure of the skin. They need a treatment that makes the skin renew itself from deeper down, such as microneedling. Cosmetic treatments can soften scars, but they do not remove them completely.

Deep and widespread scars are a matter for a doctor. So it is worth working out first which one you have, because marks and scars call for different treatments.

Is it a mark or a scar?

The easiest way to tell is to look at your skin in side light and feel it with a fingertip. A mark is flat: the colour changes, but you feel no dent. A scar shows as a shadow or a dip, and it stands out more clearly in side light than when you look straight on.

Scars also differ from one another:

• narrow, deep pinpoint pits
• wider dents with clear edges
• soft, rolling dips whose edges blend into the surrounding skin

Many people have both marks and scars at the same time. The treatments can then be combined, and the order is agreed after a skin assessment.

What helps with what?

The treatment is chosen by what shows on your skin:

• red marks: time, gentle skincare and sunscreen every day, as the redness often fades gradually on its own
• brown marks: BioRePeel C13 or a GIGI Acid Peel as a course, with daily sunscreen
• rough surface and shallow dents: facial microneedling as a course
• dents and dark marks together: microneedling + BioRePeel C13 on one visit
• deep, narrow or widespread scars: an assessment by a dermatologist, who has methods a cosmetologist does not use

Sunscreen belongs to every option, because UV light darkens the marks. We explain the difference between the two methods in peel or microneedling.

When should treatment wait, and when should you see a doctor?

If new inflamed spots are still appearing, those are treated first. Scar treatment is best started once the skin has calmed down. We write about breakouts in adulthood in adult acne.

Peels are not done during pregnancy or breastfeeding. They are also not done if you take isotretinoin or stopped it less than six months ago. Before microneedling, tell us about your medication, pregnancy and any skin conditions, and we will decide together whether the treatment suits you.

See a dermatologist if the scars are deep or widespread, if they are raised or itchy, or if the redness does not fade even after several months. Deniza will tell you plainly at the consultation if she thinks cosmetic treatment is not enough.

How does a course of treatment go?

In microneedling, a device makes tiny micro-channels in the skin, and serums are applied afterwards. The skin starts to renew itself, and the change shows gradually. That is why microneedling is done as a course: at least three visits 4–6 weeks apart. The skin may be red afterwards, and you get written aftercare instructions.

BioRePeel C13 is a two-phase peel that usually causes no visible flaking. As a course, it is done every 10–14 days. After an acid peel, the skin may flake lightly for 2–5 days, though not everyone's does.

Aftercare is part of the result. Avoid sauna, swimming and sweaty exercise for 24 hours after BioRePeel and for 48 hours after an acid peel. Use SPF 50 sunscreen every day for at least a week after BioRePeel and for two weeks after an acid peel.

The result is assessed over the course, not after one visit. Deniza suggests the number of treatments based on your skin.

Frequently asked

• Will the scars disappear completely? Usually not. Treatments can soften the dents and smooth the surface, but the result depends on how deep the scars are and on your skin.
• How many microneedling sessions do I need? Deniza recommends at least three visits 4–6 weeks apart. She suggests the exact number after assessing your skin.
• Does microneedling hurt? It feels like light prickling and vibration, and it varies by area. You can ask for a pause at any time.
• Can I treat marks in summer? BioRePeel can be done in summer too. Plan the acid peel and microneedling with BioRePeel on one visit for autumn to spring.

Where to start at Skinique?

A good first step is a free consultation. Deniza looks at your skin and tells you whether you have marks, scars or both. Then she suggests the order in which the treatments make sense.

If you already know what you want, you can book facial microneedling or microneedling and BioRePeel on one visit directly. For a course, the best value is the course of three microneedling sessions.